Degustująca Istota visited @mercato_restaurant at the end of November. The restaurant is located in the Hilton Hotel’s building. Mercato’s Chef is Paweł Stawicki. He won @archimagirus_konkurs last year and because of that he did internship at the RAW restaurant @andrechiang_sg in Tajwan. In the last edition of the guide @gaultmillaupolska the restaurant received three Chef’s hats.
The interior of the restaurant is elegant and calm. Through windows you can see beautiful view of the Motława River.
The Degustująca Istota together with a companion, decided to test a five courses tasting menu at Mercato.
Mini rosemary breads and dark beer rolls were excellent. Additionaly a butter and a lard with dried apple were served. 4 eggplants.
As an Amuse-bouche, to stimulate the taste buds, a strawberry shot with red orange was served. 3 eggplants.
Roe deer tartare with cauliflower fungus and mustard
Delicate, a bit sweet tartare and a slightly sour pickled cauliflower fungus, were composed perfectly together. The whole dish was sprinkled with boletus powder. 4 eggplants.
Gdańsk fish soup with no fish
Baked potato consommé with fried eggplant and paprika oil. 5 eggplants.
Another non-alcoholic shot. This time with celery, apple and melon. 3 eggplants.
Fried plaice with armillaria mushrooms, cabbage puree and Kvass sauce
The first main course. Well-prepared fish fillet, which was additionally decorated with orchid petals, onion chips and roasted butter sauce. As you can see in the picture there are chanterelles rather than armillaria. However, I think that the dish by this change lose nothing. 3 eggplants.
Lamb shank with edible chestnuts and cognac
The meat itself was great. Covered with a thin slice of speck. Perfectly fried king oyster mushroom, morel mushroom, chanterelles and delicate chestnut puree with the addition of cognac. The whole dish was enriched with the Demi-Glace sauce. 5 eggplants.
Rosemary sorbet with lemon, sea buckthorn petal and tangerine gel. 3 eggplants.
Gdańsk almond cake
Marzipan ice cream, roasted almonds, adzuki bean cream. A surprising dessert. Sweet with a hint of acidity. It seems heavy, but with juicy elements. 5 eggplants.
As you can notice, considering the number of eggplants that were awarded to the courses, the dinner was of an excellent standard. Surprising and well thought-out combinations of flavors, great technique and beautiful design. It’s a pity that the tasting menu is so short. We would like to have twice as many dishes. Pralines (from tonka beans and oranges) were served after the dinner.
The service was professional and nice, although there was some tension and rush. If everything was great, why the score is so low? It is not the Chefs or service fault. The restaurant is connected to the bar. It’s basically one room, which introduces a lot of confusion. At Mercato we were at the time when very loud and troublesome guests were there at the bar, which caused a headache and that is why we don’t mention it pleasantly. We wanted to eat the last dishes as soon as possible so that we could escape and rest. This is not what we expected after Saturday evening in an elegant restaurant. After giving complaint to the staff, they apologized to us and explained, that there is nothing they can do about it.
The Mercato restaurant receives: 220/250
Link to the restaurant Mercato
Address: Targ Rybny 1, 80-838 Gdańsk
Title picture: Roe deer tartare